In a recent trip to Argentina, Nathan Joyes spent time in La Boca before joining Los Xeneizes as their team secured qualification to the Copa Sudamericana knockout stage in style.
La Bombonera is on many football fans' bucket lists and it’s completely justified. The iconic, quirky-looking stadium that stands proudly in La Boca is the heartbeat of the community, where 54,000 fans join as one to create one of the most hostile environments for opposing teams in world football.
From the fan's point of view, it’s a party that everyone so desperately wants to be a part of. If you’re there to support Boca, make sure to embrace the environment. It’s truly one of the best places in the world to watch a football match. That is, if Boca wins.
The opposition, however, are very much not welcome. Enter, if you dare, has never felt so fitting.
Google Maps certainly isn’t required to know what neighbourhood in Buenos Aires you’ve wandered into. The barrage of iconic blue and yellow caked on each and every house, shop, and street sign has a cult-like feel you must pass as you make your way to the ground.
This is La Boca, and no one here bleeds red.
The neighbourhood wasn’t always the traditional colours we know today. In fact, Boca began in a white shirt with black stripes. That was replaced by a light blue jersey, although a team no longer in existence, Nottingham de Almagro, proudly wore similar colours.
Both teams agreed to play each other, and the winners would be rewarded by keeping their colours. Boca lost, and instead chose to adopt the colours of the first boat which docked in La Boca’s port. This turned out to be a ship from Sweden, and the rest, as they say, is history.
That at least clears up why Swedish flags are often waved around La Bombonera on matchdays.
Walking through La Boca
It was impossible to not get swept up in the carnival-like atmosphere en route to the stadium as Boca prepared for their final Copa Sudamericana match vs Bolivian outfit Nacional Potosi. With a win required in order to secure progress to the next stage of the competition, this was no occasion to take their opponents for granted.
Riquelme and Maradona were the only names in sight across fans' shirts as the blue and yellow army marched towards La Bombonera, lit up in all its glory.
Coaches were crammed with fans leaning out of the windows with Swedish flags and flares, where the narrow streets of La Boca struggled to cope with the sheer number of people travelling on foot.
Numerous fans were being interviewed outside the ground next to makeshift asados (Argentine barbecues), where the selection of local steak cuts could also be seen as well as smelt, as the smoke from the flares and grills intertwined.
After three different lines of security checks was the first real opportunity to catch a glimpse of La Bombonera without any distractions. She isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but her imperfections are why so many fans have fallen in love. This is certainly no ordinary football stadium. Then again, this is no ordinary football club.
Sales hindering progress
Although one of the more famous teams in world football, it has been a tough period for Boca.
Despite reaching the Copa Libertadores final in 2023, the club fell short and was unable to beat Fluminense - albeit in the Brazilian's backyard. Their sacrifices to get to the final came at a price, as below-par league performances saw them fail to qualify for the 2024 competition altogether.
Holding onto their best players has proven to be near impossible, with academy stars enticed by the bright lights the European scene has to offer.
Valentin Barco joined Brighton, whereas Alan Varela left to join Porto after the club had navigated their way to the quarter-finals of the Libertadores. This campaign may be no different, with European attention on Varela’s replacement, Ezequiel Fernandez, from a host of different clubs.
Boca’s last Libertadores title was back in 2007. This year, they are competing in the Sudamericana, a Europa League equivalent if you will, but one that their fans simply do not accept.
However, as Boca are in it, there are expectations for the club to go and deliver the title for the first time since 2005.
Kick Off
The match itself was a procession. Kevin Zenon’s beautifully curled left-footed strike from outside the area within ten minutes set the tone. In fact, Boca were 3-0 up inside 20 minutes thanks to goals from veteran forward Edinson Cavani and Marcelo Saracchi.
Club captain Marcos Rojo got his name on the scoresheet to complete the 4-0 scoreline before a host of youth players were given the opportunity to shine. How long Boca fans will get to enjoy them was perhaps the only negative thought on the night.
However, not much else was going to ruin the Boca’s crowd spirits. From the warm-ups to the final whistle, anti-River Plate chants (delicately put) rung around the four walls as Boca eased into the knockout stage. Nacional Potosi couldn’t get out of there faster.
Lowering expectations will never be accepted amongst Los Xeneizes, but the Sudamericana offers the club a springboard to add another trophy to their cabinet, and who would turn that down?
Boca Juniors aren’t quite where they want to be, but with nights like that at La Bombonera, the soul and magic of the club will never be lost.
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